Maybe this is almost two years of isolation talking, but there is nothing quite like sitting on a covered Portland patio on a rainy day, drinking good beer and eating outrageous barbecue with friends, or even strangers.
Starting Wednesday, you too can have this transformative experience on the patio at Little Beast Brewing, 3412 S.E. Division St., where they are serving up Lawless Barbecue created by Kevin Koch (that’s pronounced “cook,” naturally).
Koch’s Kansas City barbecue previously was available only for delivery and takeout. But now, you can get his 13-hour smoked brisket delivered warm to your table. You can also still get it delivered through DoorDash on the Little Beast website.
No matter how you choose to consume your Lawless Barbecue, you’ll want to bring a few people to share it with, just so you can order a little bit of everything.
There’s the meat, of course — the 12-hour smoked burnt ends of Angus brisket melt in your mouth and the sweet, soft pulled pork is without even the slightest dry bite. Don’t be surprised if you fight over the last pieces of the salty brisket.
“I’m a barbecue addict,” Koch said Tuesday on the Little Beast patio. “If I’m not cooking it I’m looking at it on the phone.”
The new menu is an excellent complement to Little Beast’s beer offerings. Charles Porter, who co-founded Little Beast with wife, Brenda Crow, in 2017, was also the founding brewer of acclaimed Logsdon Farmhouse Ales. He has brought his deft touch to Little Beast, using cultures such as Saccharomyces, Brettanomyces and Lactobacillus to create traditional and tart profiles as well as fruit, wild flora and wood-aging to build depth and character.
He began Little Beast brewing classic Belgian and European style beers, including saisons and pilsners, and the taplist is rounded out by IPAs, hazies, sours and stouts — a wide array of beers to pair with your barbecue of choice.
Koch is Kansas City-born but has lived in Portland for 13 years.
“Everywhere I lived in Kansas City,” he said, “there was my new favorite barbecue place.”
He wanted to bring some of that to Portland. So far, it seems to be working.
Beyond meats, Koch is focused on his sides. The sweet baked beans are made from scratch and swimming with pulled pork. The vinegar slaw with candied pecans is a tangy, fresh bite that perfectly counteracts the meat. And the mac and cheese with a panko crust is a meal in itself.
But the potato salad is the real treasure here – chunks of tender potatoes, green onions and bacon crumbles that, even though it’s 55 degrees and raining, transport you to a summer picnic.
And, it doesn’t end there. Please save room for the banana pudding, which features actual bananas, candied pecans and little Nilla wafers. Koch said it’s his second most popular item, but I predict it moves to the top among Little Beast patrons looking for a sweet treat with their beer.
Sandwiches, served with one side, are $14-$16. Plates, also served with one side, are $16-$35. Extra sides are $4 each and that banana cream pie is $7.
If there’s any downside to Lawless Barbecue, it would probably be that there aren’t a ton of options for the meat-free and even fewer for meat and dairy-free. Still, every place can’t be everything to everyone and barbecue has always been for meat lovers.
Lawless Barbecue is no different. Come ready to spend a while eating some meat. It’s been a long pandemic, why not enjoy yourself?
Andre Meunier contributed to this story.
-- Lizzy Acker
503-221-8052, lacker@oregonian.com, @lizzzyacker
The Link LonkOctober 27, 2021 at 11:33PM
https://www.oregonlive.com/food/2021/10/little-beast-brewing-is-now-serving-tender-delicious-lawless-barbecue.html
Little Beast Brewing is now serving tender, delicious Lawless Barbecue - OregonLive
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