Tucked away behind a Firestone autoshop and a Dairy Queen off West Avenue, across from where the old Incredible Pizza used to be, is one of San Antonio's favorite Italian restaurants. Before today, I've never visited Little Italy Restaurant & Pizzeria, but when I learned it was turning 40, I knew I had to change that.
Despite it being my inaugural trip to Little Italy, I felt a strange familiarity as I drove up to the family-operated business for the first time. Maybe something about the red roof, the replica of the Statue of Liberty, or the map of Italy struck an initial chord with me, but that feeling of déjà vu followed throughout my dining experience.
Welcome to Little Italy
When I first walked in, I was greeted by desserts presented behind a glass case followed by a cheerful welcome from a server. As she led me to my seat, I took in everything around me. There's a sense of timelessness to Little Italy that falls just short of stepping into a time machine.
Interior at Little Italy.
Polly Anna RochaRustic tiles create a path through a sea of red-and-white checkered tablecloths. Roman statuettes in various states of undress fill out a shelf near the kitchen entrance. Arched doorways are lined with decorative wine bottles, and nearby, a framed print of Gustav Klimt's "the Kiss" hangs on a wall. The background music included a mix of Italian pop music interspersed with American jazz tunes from a bygone era.
Little Italy has personality, and I think that's what makes it so easy to tap into as a customer. While I sat alone in my two-person table near a window, I occasionally glanced around to make notice of the other clientele. I saw blue collar workers on their lunch break, several couples on dates, and a family with kiddos with more energy than I've had in the last decade. The diverse makeup of Little Italy's diners gave me a sense that this is a place for anyone who wants to enjoy a nice helping of pasta and/or pizza.
Italian food and good vibes
Before I could order anything, my server brought over a sample sliver of pizza that nearly swayed my ordering choice. Apparently, this courtesy slice is something of an homage to the hospitality of San Antonio's Mexican restaurants, known for providing free chips and salsa for diners. It was the perfect appetizer to kick off my meal.
The salad and bread at Little Italy.
Polly Anna RochaAfter a quick glance at the extensive menu, I decided to order the linguini with clams, which came with a house salad with housemade Italian dressing, and a basket of freshly baked bread. I thought about ordering a glass of wine, but it felt wrong to do so alone at 12:15 in the afternoon, so I ordered water instead. I might make different choices next time when I'm not on the clock, as nearly every other person in the room has a nice glass of red. I wanted what they had, but I preferred to keep my wits about me, if only to get a better judgement of the pasta.
The salad and the bread came out first, with my server providing a playful quip before leaving me to my own devices. She recommended the Italian salad, and I'm so glad she did. The leaves were green and the dressing was punchy and flavorful without overpowering the whole point of eating a salad (freshness). The bread was hot, likely right out of the oven, so naturally, it was divine, especially with a spread of butter atop. I was ready to fill up on the stuff before my pasta finally arrived.
Linguini with clams at Little Italy.
Polly Anna RochaMy linguini came piping hot, so I decided to grab a few more bites of my salad before digging into the noodles. The clams in the pasta were little flavor bombs, filled with bursts of garlic and oceanic salinity that accented the pasta well. I rotated between the linguini and the clams until nothing but a puddle of thin sauce lined the bottom of my plate, which I sopped up with a piece of complimentary bread.
When I thought I had my fill, the server came by once more to offer dessert. I almost never save room for dessert, but she presented a strong case for the cannoli, so I simply could not refuse. The tube-shaped, cream-filled pastry arrived with a dusting of powdered sugar on top, and I ate it in record time as Andrea Bocelli sang "Por ti volare" faintly in the background.
History in the making
Little Italy is often a moniker given to districts in big cities that have large concentrations of Italian people. While San Antonio doesn't necessarily have such a district anymore, the Visocaro family sought to create their own piece of home with the opening of Little Italy Restaurant & Pizzeria in 1983. Before that, founders Angelo and Paola Visocaro lived in New York City for over a decade, after immigrating to the United States from their hometown of Palermo, Italy. That must be why Lady Liberty herself stands proudly atop the restaurant.
Over the subsequent decades, Little Italy grew its following, garnering a dedicated customer base of all kinds. Though Angelo died in 2011, his son Dominick Visocaro has taken the helm, preserving the legacy that his parents built. Paola is still around too, helping her son operate the business out of its original location at 824 Afterglow.
The Visocaro family continues to operate Little Italy from its original location.
Little Italy Restaurant & PizzeriaThe Visocaro family put its Italian culture and traditions at the forefront of Little Italy, and their personal touch is on everything, from the decor to the menu to the music. What the restaurant lacks in modernity, it more than makes up for in personality and warmth. Perhaps that's why its still in the restaurant game after 40 years, and a perennial favorite for Best Italian in the city. There's something to be said about a place that knows exactly what it is, and it commits to it wholeheartedly.
Little Italy will commemorate its 40-year milestone with an anniversary celebration on Saturday, April 15, complete with Fiesta medals, special wine and beer glasses, and a complimentary slice of cake for all customers who visit that day.
Find it: 824 Afterglow St., San Antonio, TX 78216
April 15, 2023 at 05:03PM
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Little Italy Restaurant & Pizzeria turns 40 this year - mySA
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